Atlanta Spring Green-Up Plan for Bermuda and Zoysia, what to do before the first mow

That first warm week in Atlanta can make you want to rush outside and “wake up” the lawn. But Atlanta lawn green-up is less like flipping a switch and more like a slow stretch after a long nap. If you push too hard too early, you can set Bermuda or Zoysia back for weeks.

This plan is for Metro Atlanta homeowners with warm-season lawns, including popular Bermuda cultivars like TifTuf and Tifway , and Zoysia cultivars like Zeon and Empire . The goal is simple: get set up for a thick, even green-up, before your first real mow forces decisions you can’t take back.

In late winter and early spring, your lawn can look confusing. A few green tips show up, but the yard still feels mostly tan. That’s normal. Bermuda and Zoysia green up based on soil temperature , not a single sunny afternoon.

A helpful rule is to watch soil temps at about 2 to 4 inches deep, plus the forecast. When nights stay cold, grass may “fake” green-up, then stall again. If you fertilize during that stall, you often feed weeds more than turf, and you can push tender growth into a cold snap.

For Bermuda, many university-style calendars recommend holding off on nitrogen until soil temps are consistently warm and rising. The University of Georgia’s guidance is a solid reference, especially the note about waiting until soil temperature at the 4-inch depth is consistently 65°F and rising before applying nitrogen. It’s in their Bermudagrass lawn calendar.

Zoysia is naturally slower. Zeon tends to green up a bit earlier than some other Zoysias, but it still lags behind Bermuda in many yards. Empire is often a little coarser and can take its time. That slower pace is why “getting aggressive” with Zoysia in early spring, especially scalping too low, can leave it thin or stressed when you want it filling in.

If you only remember one thing here, remember this: spring lawn work is about preparation , not forcing growth.

Think of your first mow like painting a wall. If you don’t prep the surface, the finish won’t look right no matter how good the paint is.

Start with a quick clean-up. Remove sticks, pinecones, and winter debris so your mower doesn’t scalp high spots or throw projectiles. If you have a heavy layer of matted leaves, rake it out. Warm-season grass needs light and air at the crown to transition smoothly.

Next, handle weed prevention early enough to matter. In Atlanta, summer weeds like crabgrass are the big target, and pre-emergent works best before weed seeds sprout . If you wait until you see crabgrass, you’re already behind. Most homeowners use one of these active ingredients (pick what fits your lawn plans and read the label carefully):

• Prodiamine : long-lasting barrier, great for staying ahead
• Dithiopyr : barrier plus some early post-emergent activity on young crabgrass
• Pendimethalin : another common option in many retail products
• Indaziflam : long residual in some products, can be less forgiving around new grass

Mistake to avoid: applying pre-emergent too late , or applying it and then never watering it in. Most labels require irrigation or rainfall to activate it.

Now decide if you’ll scalp (and how much).

For Bermuda lawns (TifTuf, Tifway, common Bermuda), a spring scalp can remove dead top growth and let sun hit the turf base. In many Atlanta yards, that means dropping height well below your summer setting for one cleanup cut.

• If you mow with a rotary mower, many homeowners scalp Bermuda around 0.75 to 1.25 inches , then return to the normal range after.
• Bagging that scalp cut is usually worth it. It removes a lot of brown material that would otherwise shade new growth.

Mistake to avoid: scalping Bermuda too early when freezes are still likely, or scalping so low you expose soil on uneven ground and nick stolons across high spots.

Zoysia can be cleaned up, but it’s less forgiving. Zeon in particular can look great at lower heights, but only when the lawn is level and actively growing.

• For most rotary-mowed Zoysia lawns, keep spring cleanup conservative. Aim for a first cut around 1.5 to 2.5 inches depending on your normal height.
• If you remove too much too soon, Zoysia may green up patchy, and recovery can drag into late spring.

Mistake to avoid: scalping Zoysia like Bermuda . It’s a common reason a Zoysia lawn looks thin in May.

Finally, don’t “fix” spring color with irrigation. Overwatering during green-up keeps soils cool and soggy, encourages disease, and trains shallow roots. If Atlanta spring rain is doing its job, you often don’t need extra water yet.

Once you see steady growth, your first real mow is about setting rhythm. A lawn that gets cut at the right height, on time, usually beats a lawn that gets “treated” more.

Use these as practical ranges for most Metro Atlanta homes:

• Bermuda (TifTuf, Tifway, common) : 1.0 to 2.0 inches for routine mowing. If you scalp, do it once, then come back up into this range.
• Zoysia (Zeon, Empire) : 1.5 to 2.5 inches for routine mowing. Zeon can go lower with a reel mower and a level lawn, but most rotary setups look best in this band.

Mistake to avoid: mowing too low too soon, especially when the lawn is still waking up. You’ll trade short-term “clean” for long-term thin.

If you did a Bermuda scalp, bagging is usually the cleanest option for that first pass. If you’re mowing at normal height and clippings are light, mulching is fine as long as you’re not leaving piles.

A simple test: if clippings clump when you walk through, bag that cut or mow more often.

By spring in Atlanta, winter weeds like Poa annua and chickweed are common. If they’re light, sometimes the best move is patience and mowing. As temperatures rise, many winter weeds fade.

If they’re heavy, spot treatment can help, but be careful during green-up. Use only products labeled safe for Bermuda or Zoysia, and avoid spraying on a day when the lawn is stressed. For Zoysia owners who want variety-specific pointers, NG Turf’s Zoysia grass guide is a useful overview of growth habits and care expectations. For Bermuda mowing and seasonal behavior, Bermuda Lawn Guide is a handy reference for common homeowner practices.

Soil temps vary by neighborhood, sun exposure, and whether you’re on clay or more sandy fill. Use this as a flexible template, not a hard calendar date.

You don’t need a garage full of products. You need the right basics:

• Pre-emergent with prodiamine or dithiopyr (common homeowner choices)
• Handheld spreader or calibrated broadcast spreader for even coverage
• Sharp mower blade (a fresh edge prevents shredding and browning)
• Soil thermometer to stop guessing about timing
• Post-emergent herbicide labeled for Bermuda or Zoysia (use caution during green-up)
• Fertilizer chosen from a soil test , usually with nitrogen plus potassium; avoid “high-N” early just for color

Mistake to avoid: fertilizing without a plan. If you don’t have a soil test, start modest, then adjust once the lawn is fully active.

Safety and legal note: always follow the product label, it’s the law. Also check local watering guidance, including any city or county restrictions, before you set irrigation timers.

Green-up is your chance to build momentum. Get the timing right, mow with intention, and let Bermuda and Zoysia do what they’re built to do: spread, thicken, and turn the yard into a real summer lawn. The payoff is fewer weeds, fewer thin spots, and a healthier lawn that looks better with less stress all season.