Atlanta Fertilizer Plan for Bermuda and Zoysia, month-by-month nitrogen rates, slow-release vs quick-release, and when to stop
A green Atlanta lawn in summer looks effortless from the street, but it’s really about timing. Put nitrogen down too early and you feed weeds while the turf is still sleeping. Push heavy nitrogen too late and you can set your lawn up for winter injury.
This Atlanta lawn fertilizer schedule is built for the two most common warm-season grasses in Metro Atlanta, Bermuda and Zoysia. You’ll get month-by-month nitrogen rates (March through October), guidance on slow-release vs quick-release, and a clear stop window so your lawn can harden off before cold weather.
Bermuda vs Zoysia in Atlanta: how hard you can push nitrogen
Bermuda and Zoysia both love Atlanta heat, but they don’t “eat” the same way.
Bermuda grass handles higher nitrogen and recovers fast from mowing, traffic, and summer stress. It can take more frequent feeding during peak growth (late spring through summer). If you’ve got full sun and you mow often, Bermuda can look its best with steady nitrogen and iron.
Zoysia grass is naturally denser and slower. It greens up later, spreads slower, and it’s easier to overfeed. Too much nitrogen can make Zoysia puffy, thatchy, and more prone to disease. If your Zoysia is in partial shade (common in Atlanta neighborhoods), that’s another reason to stay conservative with nitrogen.
A simple rule that works for many homeowners:
- Bermuda yearly target : about 3 to 5 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft (split across the growing season).
- Zoysia yearly target : about 2 to 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft (also split, with fewer “heavy” months).
Also, mowing and nitrogen go together. Bermuda usually looks best cut shorter (often 1 to 1.5 inches with a rotary mower, shorter with a reel). Zoysia usually performs best a bit taller (often 1.5 to 2.5 inches). If you raise mowing height, reduce nitrogen slightly because growth slows.
Month-by-month fertilizer plan for Atlanta (March through October)
Use the table as a starting point, then adjust based on rain, mowing frequency, and how the turf looks. Never fertilize a drought-stressed lawn that’s already wilting or off-color.
Important timing note: Start nitrogen only after the lawn is actively growing. For many Atlanta lawns, that’s around April, sometimes late March in warmer spots. If you fertilize while it’s still mostly brown, you’re mostly feeding weeds.
| Month | Recommended lbs N/1,000 sq ft | Preferred N source split (slow vs quick) | Key tasks (mowing, water, weeds) |
|---|---|---|---|
| March | Bermuda: 0 to 0.25, Zoysia: 0 | 70% slow, 30% quick | Mow low once to clean up (scalp Bermuda only if you plan to), sharpen blade, water only as needed. If you missed early spring pre-emergent, apply ASAP. |
| April | Bermuda: 0.5, Zoysia: 0.25 | 60% slow, 40% quick | Begin regular mowing at your target height, start watering to reach about 1 inch per week if rainfall is short. Spot-spray broadleaf weeds on warm days. |
| May | Bermuda: 0.75, Zoysia: 0.5 | 50% slow, 50% quick | Growth takes off. Mow often (never remove more than 1/3 of the blade). Watch for dollar spot on Zoysia if nights stay humid. |
| June | Bermuda: 1.0, Zoysia: 0.5 to 0.75 | 40% slow, 60% quick | Peak growth. Water deeply and less often. Plan for insect scouting (especially if you’ve had past grub issues). |
| July | Bermuda: 0.75, Zoysia: 0.5 | 50% slow, 50% quick | Heat stress month. Avoid heavy quick-release if you can’t irrigate. Keep mowing consistent to prevent scalping. |
| August | Bermuda: 0.5, Zoysia: 0.25 to 0.5 | 70% slow, 30% quick | Begin tapering nitrogen. Keep watering during dry spells, but avoid daily shallow watering. Start thinking about fall pre-emergent timing. |
| September | Bermuda: 0 to 0.25, Zoysia: 0 to 0.25 | 80% slow, 20% quick | This is the “light touch” month. Apply fall pre-emergent for winter weeds when temps start easing. Avoid pushing growth with fast nitrogen. |
| October | Bermuda: 0, Zoysia: 0 | 100% slow only (if any) | Skip nitrogen for most lawns. Keep mowing until growth stops. Blow leaves often so turf isn’t shaded and smothered. |
What about November through February?
Don’t apply nitrogen to Bermuda or Zoysia in winter. Focus on cleanup, drainage, leaf removal, and planning. If winter weeds pop up, spot-treat on mild days, and keep traffic off frosty turf.
Slow-release vs quick-release nitrogen: what to use and when
Think of quick-release nitrogen like a strong cup of coffee. It works fast, greens up quicker, and pushes growth. That’s helpful in late spring and early summer when the lawn is growing hard, you’re mowing regularly, and you can water.
Quick-release is also the easiest to mess up. Too much can scorch, especially in July heat or if the lawn is dry.
Slow-release nitrogen is more like a steady drip. It feeds over weeks, reduces surge growth, and is usually safer in hot weather. For Zoysia in particular, slow-release helps keep growth smoother and can lower the risk of building thatch.
A practical approach for Atlanta homeowners:
- Use more quick-release from May through July if you want faster color and density (mostly Bermuda lawns).
- Use more slow-release in shoulder months (April, August, September) when you want steadier growth and less stress.
If you want to see how other homeowners handle “spoon-feeding” warm-season lawns (small, frequent doses), this warm-season fertilizing discussion is a helpful reference point for real-world pacing and expectations.
How to calculate fertilizer application rate from the bag (and split applications)
Fertilizer math is easier than it looks. You’re trying to apply a certain amount of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 sq ft. The first number on the bag is nitrogen percentage.
Use this formula:
Pounds of product to apply per 1,000 sq ft = (target lbs of N) ÷ (N% as a decimal)
Example 1: 16-4-8
(16% N)
If your target is 0.5 lb N/1,000
:
0.5 ÷ 0.16 = 3.1 lbs of product per 1,000 sq ft
Example 2: 29-0-5
(29% N)
If your target is 0.5 lb N/1,000
:
0.5 ÷ 0.29 = 1.7 lbs of product per 1,000 sq ft
This is why high-nitrogen products apply at much lower product rates. Measure your lawn size, weigh the product if you can, and calibrate your spreader slowly. It’s better to apply slightly light than slightly heavy.
How often should you apply?
Most homeowners do best with applications every 4 to 6 weeks
during active growth. Bermuda can also look great with spoon-feeding (smaller monthly doses), but only if you’re mowing often and can water. Zoysia usually looks best with fewer, lighter applications because it gets thatchy when it’s pushed too hard.
When to stop fertilizing in Atlanta (and why it matters)
Here’s the stop window that saves a lot of lawns from fall regrets:
- Stop higher nitrogen apps (especially quick-release) between late August and mid-September.
- If you apply anything after that, keep it light and mostly slow-release, and stop no later than early October.
The reason is simple. Late-season nitrogen can keep the grass tender and growing when it should be slowing down. That reduces hardening off , which can increase the odds of winter injury, weak spring green-up, and more disease pressure during cool, wet swings.
If you’re tempted to fertilize in October because the lawn looks pale, consider iron (if label allows) and better mowing consistency instead of more nitrogen.
A quick, smart disclaimer before you spread anything
Use this plan as a baseline, then adjust to your lawn. Soil test results and fertilizer label directions should always win if they conflict with a generic schedule. If your lawn has shade, compaction, thin topsoil, or irrigation limits, reduce nitrogen and focus on mowing, water timing, and weed prevention first.
A steady plan beats a heavy hand. Apply on schedule, taper at the right time, and your Bermuda or Zoysia will reward you next spring with a cleaner, faster green-up and fewer headaches.
